The Cartier Love Bracelet: Where Design Meets Devotion

The Cartier Love Bracelet: Where Design Meets Devotion

Cartier ‘Love’ Bracelet

£5,500 (+BP), sold May 2024.

As the world eagerly awaits the V&A Museum's exhibition celebrating the legacy of Cartier next month, it is only fitting to delve into the iconic history of one of the most recognizable pieces in the luxury jewellery market: the Cartier ‘Love’ bracelet. The bracelet, created in 1969 by Italian designer Aldo Cipullo, has transcended the boundaries of fashion and style to become a token of romance and modern elegance. Its unique design, which fuses function with profound symbolism, has made it a timeless emblem in the realm of fine jewellery.

The Birth of the Love Bracelet

Originally conceived in New York during a time of social and cultural upheaval, the Cartier Love bracelet was designed as a response to the changing attitudes of the era. Cipullo’s creation broke away from traditional jewellery, which was often reserved for special occasions or worn to signify wealth and status. His design was revolutionary for its simplicity and practicality: a unisex bracelet that could be worn daily, locked onto the wrist with the aid of a small screwdriver, connoting the permanence and exclusivity of love. The bracelet’s oval shape, meant to fit tightly around the wrist, added to the notions of unbreakable bond and commitment.

The concept of using a locking mechanism as part of the design was not purely functional but deeply symbolic, rooted in the idea of everlasting love. In fact, the Love bracelet's design drew inspiration from the medieval chastity belt, a device meant to protect a woman’s purity in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries during the Crusades. However, Cipullo’s modern take on this concept represented a romantic and liberated vision of love, one that was equal and consensual, thus requiring two people to secure the screws.

The Design and Craftsmanship

The Cartier Love bracelet has evolved over the years, but its core design has remained unchanged. The version we auctioned, crafted in rose gold and white gold, features twelve round brilliant-cut diamonds set between alternating industrial screw motifs.

The marriage of mixed golds and diamonds brings a modern, refined elegance to the bracelet; the twelve diamonds, each meticulously set, serve as a reminder that true love is precious, rare, and enduring.

The Cultural Phenomenon

Over 50 years after its creation, the Love bracelet still ranks consistently among the most Googled luxury items and has historically captured the attention of celebrities, fashion icons, and luxury connoisseurs alike. Its appeal lies not only in its aesthetic beauty, but additionally in the universal message of love it conveys.

Beyond the Love bracelet, Cipullo's portfolio includes other memorable pieces such as the Juste un Clou (translation: nail) bracelet.

The Love bracelet contributed to Cartier’s rise as a global luxury leader, helping the brand reach a younger, more diverse audience. Along with its counterparts, the ring and necklace, the entire Love collection remains an essential part of Cartier’s extensive portfolio, accounting for a significant portion of the brand’s jewellery sales.

Conclusion

The Cartier ‘Love’ bracelet has proven to be more than just a piece of jewellery; it is a cultural metaphor, a timeless representation of love and commitment, and a testament to the visionary work of Aldo Cipullo. As we approach the upcoming exhibition at the V&A, it is impossible to ignore the legacy of the Cartier Love collection, as it remains a cherished symbol of the most profound human emotion, beautifully captured in precious metals and diamonds.

In the world of luxury jewellery, few pieces have maintained their relevance and allure like the Cartier Love bracelet, ensuring its place as a true icon of design and romance.

Cartier and Auction

Here at Catherine Southon Auctioneers, we regularly auction collectible and rare Cartier items. Our sold selection of Cartier includes a silver Yoko Ono & John Lennon Double Fantasy box, £13,000; a pair of French diamond-set ear clips, £23,000; a mid-twentieth-century gem-set bird brooch, £7,000; an 18 carat gold and sapphire cigarette case, £5,000; a French gold, enamel and chalcedony carriage timepiece, £6,000.

This portfolio illustrates that purchasing Cartier on the secondary market provides you with the opportunity to discover something vintage or contemporary. 

*all hammer prices are not inclusive of the buyer’s premium